I’ve been ungenerous regarding the Martins, I suppose. They’ve been gracious hosts: feeding me and telling me their stories. John … Continue reading Villages

I have to get out of here. As much as I have ideas about teaching myself to tolerate things, I … Continue reading Must Go

We went to Ratnagiri today, the regional capital: a dirty, noisy frustrating town. For the first time I was homesick … Continue reading Disappointment

 It’s foggy and cool mornings here, until about 11 when the heat really comes on. The Martins complain about the … Continue reading Ganthi

I got the bus at mid-day, a rickety, musty country bus with hard bench seats: four hours to Oni. I … Continue reading To the Konkan

I’m in Kohlapur today, which is a pilgrimage town in Southwestern Maharashtra. I haven’t seen a single other westerner since … Continue reading Going off radar

I’ve become increasingly annoyed with English tourists. I’ve met a few thoughtful ones, but by and large those I’ve observed … Continue reading Thank Goodness There Are No Americans Here

The thing about traveling alone is that you meet so many people. Especially in countries where people are sociable and … Continue reading Traveling ‘Alone’

I’ve been in Panjim, the capital of Goa, for the past two nights. The Portugese influence here is much more … Continue reading DON’T DRIVE RASH